Veliko, Obično, Imacko, Imotsko, Plavo, Modro, Yebeno… Žuta Lokva — Jezerane, Zaljev Svinja… Màcićeva Kamenica, The Devil's punch-bowl…
The One and The Only
The Yasaro
Sir John Gardner Wilkinson (5 October 1797 – 29 October 1875)…
»Wilkinson travelled in Dalmatia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina during 1844, an account of his observations being published in 1848 (Dalmatia and Montenegro, 2 volumes).«
John Gardner Wilkinson.
Dalmatia and Montenegro: with a journey to Mostar in Herzegovina, and remarks on the Slavonic nations; the history of Dalmatia and Ragusa; the Uscocs; &c. &c. Vol. 2. London. 1848.
http://archive.org/stream/agv6187.0002.001.umich.edu#page/II/mode/2upChapter VIII.
p 122.…
p 122.…
»While traversing the hills, that separate the Valley of Zagosd from that of Imoschi, I was surprised by meeting a cavalcade of gaily dressed men, whose novel appearance at once convinced my guide, that some of the authorities were escorting a foreigner of distinction, who was emulating the King of Saxony's recent visit to Dalmatia; and it was not till our arrival at Imoschi, that the exalted rank of the principal person collapsed into a sort of serjeant of police, lionizing some friends, in the full bloom of authority, which thought to display itself in the vulgarity of gold embroidery, and the finery of Turkish saddles.
It is often amusing to witness the freaks of those petty officials, big with importance, before the astonished and simple-minded peasants; who see, in the dress and insignia of office, a sort of emanation from Austrian imperial-royal majesty, and believe that the power of the
employé is in direct proportion to the consequence he assumes. But, as may be supposed, the good they do is in the inverse ratio of their presumption; and none are greater enemies to the poor, or more cringing to their superiors, than the conceited "bureaucrate," who holds some insignificant post in an out-of-the-way district.
Through the centre of the plain, below Imoschi, {◊135} runs the river Verlicca |* Or Verlikka.|, which is crossed by a long low bridge of many arches, terminating at one end in a mill.
An old tower, that once defended the passage of the stream, now forms part of the miller's premises; and its picturesque effect is not diminished by the historical tales attached to it, having been an important outpost, during the wars with the Turks, when they held the castle of Imoschi.
The plain is rich, and of considerable extent, about nine miles by two, or three in the broadest part; and only requires proper drainage, to render it highly productive. The hay, though coarse, is better than in most parts of Dalmatia, where indeed it is neither abundant, nor of good quality; but improvements in agriculture have not reached Imoschi, and they have the same kind of plough and bush-harrow, and the same mode of cultivation, in this plain as in that of Mostar.
At the foot of the hills, before you ascend to the town of Imoschi, is a Greek church, and near it a mill, turned by a stream, that issues from what is called the
"Red Yesaro," at a particular time of the year, and is one of the most singular phenomena of the county. Until the middle of November this stream is not in existence, its bed is perfectly dry, and the mill is stopped; when suddenly, about the 15th of that month, its bed is filled with water, the mill is in operation, and the {◊136} course of the water continues to be uninterrupted till the following summer. At that time, the level of its reservoir, the Yesaro, is found to diminish, and the subterraneous channel, by which it is fed, ceasing to supply any more water, the stream again disappears; and the same is repeated every succeeding year.* |See below, p. 143.|
Imoschi stands on the slope of the hills, and from the houses being interspersed with gardens, it has still a little of the character of a Moslem town; though only one house remains of the old Turkish village, which was of very limited size. Imoschi was then merely a military post, with a few houses dependent upon the castle; which is now a ruin. It contains about 950 inhabitants, of whom 100 are of the Greek church, and out of 23,500 souls, the population of the whole district, 800 are Greeks. Its size would only claim for it the title of village, did not the fact of its being the residence of a
pretore give it the rank of a town; an honour it obtained in 1820.
It stands high, and is cold in winter, being about 1378 feet above the sea, and much exposed to the wind; and though the houses are well built, and of stone, the rooms are not well protected from cold, the floors consisting of single planks, with abundant space between each, to admit a stream of wind from below; besides which, the doors and windows are numerous, and fireplaces or stoves {◊137} unknown. The snow, too, lies for a considerable time on the ground, and the wind sweeps over it from the N. and N.E. February is the coldest part of the year, and the Bora blows frequently during the winter months.
The roofs of the houses are of stone tiles, like many at Mostar; which they have a strange custom of white-washing, giving them so wintry an appearance, that in looking out of window, on a cold morning, any one might imagine they were covered with snow; but the custom does not contribute to their ornament; nor is its utility evident, as the heat of the sun is never sufficient to justify such an anomaly.
There is a small inn — nothing in Dalmatia having yet arrived at the mature growth of an hotel — and though in a very primitive condition, I preferred it to better quarters with a private family, where the wish to accommodate a stranger often seriously incommodes the inmates. For the Dalmatians are very hospitable, and however great the inconvenience to themselves, do all in their power to consult the comfort of their guest; but it is far from agreeable to deprive the host of his bed-room, and to feel that the whole household is deranged by one's visit; and as they are far from rich, some really suffer for their hospitable efforts. Those, too, who are least able to afford it, are often the most liberal, in their mode of entertaining a visiter; and I generally found that the wealthier the individual, {◊138} the less was he disposed to be hospitable; men who have amassed much money being often little inclined to part with it; from their habits of acquiring being opposed to those of spending.
Imoschi has a bazaar every Wednesday and Saturday, which is frequented by Turks, or at least by Christian subjects of Turkey. They take manufactures, wine, brandy, and some other articles, but no salt, the bazaar of Unka being the place where that is principally supplied; and they bring, for sale, horses, grain, butter, cheese, cattle, goats, sheep, and "the abomination" of the Moslem, pigs.
Other articles supplied by the Turks, at some of the bazaars, are looked upon with more interest by "Young Dalmatia;" among which are jessamine and cherry sticks, for pipes, the latter known by the name of
Antipo wood; both which are sold at a most moderate price, Another kind of wood, called
Spin Sagrinato, is chiefly brought by the Morlacchi. It is very rare, and being only found in the fissures of limestone rocks, in Dalmatia, is greatly valued, and sold at a high price; and such is said to be the difficulty of obtaining it, that they are often obliged to shoot it down with ball, from its growing in inaccessible positions. It has a dark, rough bark, and from its appearance has received the name of
"chagrined thorn." Persons coming from Turkey into Dalmatia are accommodated at Imoschi with a Lazaretto, and suffer the usual imprisonment of quarantine.
{◊139} The castle is said to have belonged in old times to Herzog Stephen of Santo Saba; and a stone was found in one of the walls with an inscription recording its restoration by Lubomir *,
| (H)ANC AOLAM LUBOMIR
RESTAURAT ET ORNAT
EJUS PRECEPTOR NEC
NON QUE ……|
who is supposed to have been a Bosnian prince, before the Turkish invasion; though some pretend that it was built by the Spaniards, when in alliance with Venice. Another stone still remains in the wall, on the west side, with the letters M · V · I, {1000 5 1? vs. MDC…, ili 1006.?} probably initials, which it is not easy to explain. It is of different dates, with some additions of Venetian time.
One part stands over the precipitous cliffs of the
Yesaro (or lake), an abyss of 600 feet in depth; and it was here that the Venetians {!} enjoyed the cruel sport, of witnessing the almost hopeless effort of their prisoners to save their lives; who, when condemned to death, were taken to the top of the wall, and promised a pardon, if, in leaping upon a small projecting rock, about twenty-five feet below, they could check their downward course, and stop there. Many spurned this mockery of mercy; and whenever any one clung to the hope of success, it was only to afford his tormentors the entertainment of seeing his attempt, and failure; for few were known to succeed ; and toppling over {◊140} the narrow point of rock, they went, one after the other, headlong into the depths below, striking here and there a projecting crag, only to be hurled onward from it with increasing rapidity.
There is a small church, at the entrance of the castle, with the date
1709; {!} and at the corner of the passage, leading to the staircase of the court, is a round tower, built like the rest on the rock, near which is an unbroken piece of wall,
supposed {!} to conceal the arms of the Turks. The whole castle is about forty-eight paces in length, of irregular plan, adapted to the form of the rocks; and though inaccessible on the side of the Yesaro, would be incapable of long resistance in modern times; being commanded by the hills on the S. E. This accounts for its speedy capture, by the Venetians; and no sooner had the force, sent to its relief from Gliubuski, been defeated by Mocenigo, than the garrison surrendered, on condition of being allowed to leave the place with the honours of war. This is said {!} to have happened in 1717;
but it is evident, from the above inscription, that its capture dates several years earlier; or that it was retaken by the Turks, who were finally expelled by Mocenigo. The tradition of its capture, preserved at Imoschi does not clear up the doubt. {!} They relate that a party of eighty persons, headed by a monk, the Frate Koumbat, and by George Veich, obtained possession of the castle by stratagem. In order {◊141} to make the Turks suppose a large force was advancing against it, they lighted numerous fires
at night on the hills of Grab *, |This word, so like our own, means "grave."| on the other side of the plain, when the garrison, fearing their retreat would be cut off, abandoned it before the morning, carrying with them whatever they could remove, and throwing the rest into the lake.
Its possession was confirmed to the Venetians by the treaty of Passarovitz; {Požarevac} but, in the course of time, it ceased to be garrisoned, and is now a ruin.
The
Yesaro, or lake, is a natural sinking of the rocky mountain surface, like that in Malta called
"the Devil's punch-bowl," and others in similar limestone formations, where a border of precipitous cliffs surrounds a low piece of ground, which is either cultivable soil, or covered with water. This lake is called the
"Yesaro grande" being much larger than the others in the neighbourhood. It measures about 8098 feet in length, and 2678 in breadth, and is of irregular, or nearly semicircular {!} shape, and surrounded by almost perpendicular cliffs. Its depth is 560 feet to the water's surface, {170.68800 meters} or 623 to the bottom of the lake, {189.8904 meters} where, when dry in summer, are seen many a cannon ball, fired against the castle in by-gone days. In the steep sides are some caverns, one of which is generally occupied by goats, during the heat of a summer's day; or is, occasionally, the resort of wolves, and eagles, in winter; and, indeed, on approaching it, I {◊142} started two eagles, which were feeding on the bodies of wolves, lately killed in the neighbourhood, and thrown down upon a ledge before the mouth of the cavern. {!}
Owing to the slope of the hills, on the western side, towards the plain, the cliffs of the Yesaro are lower in that part; but even there they are two or three hundred feet high; and it is difficult to believe the assertion of the people of Imoschi, "that the
water rose about eighty years ago, {1844. - ~80 = ~ 1764.}
and ran over them to the plain below;" though the height, to which some of these lakes are known to rise, is very extraordinary: a phenomenon only accounted for, in the same manner as the sudden disappearance of several streams in Dalmatia, by attributing it to the subterraneous communications that exist in the limestone strata.
Heavy rain does not appear to have any immediate effect upon the lakes; but the long prevalence of the
Bora, or north-east wind, is generally followed by a rise of the water, and the quantity in the second, or
"red Yesaro" of Imoschi, is not very much reduced even in summer. In size this is considerably smaller than the
Yesaro grande, having a diameter of 1248 feet; {380.3904 meters} and it is distinguished from it, and from the others, by the appellation of
"Yesaro rosso" from the
redness of its rocks. It is more circular in shape, and its sides, which measure about 500 feet {152.4 meters} in height from the water's edge, are much more precipitous. The {◊143} water, too, is
said never to have been fathomed. Here and there, between the crags at its sides, grow several small bushes, which the natives, scrambling down at the risk of their lives, cut for firewood; {!} and it is curious to watch them, as they emerge from this mountain well, with bundles of faggots on their backs, and to listen, while the loosened stone, that occasionally rolls from beneath their feet, bounds from rock to rock, till it splashes in the deep water below.
It is this Yesaro that supplies the water of the stream, near the Greek church, during the winter months, which the people think an inexplicable phenomenon.* |See above, p. 136. {◊136}| But, on examining the strata, it appears that the discharge of the water, at a certain period of the year, may be explained, by their dipping to the westward {!} at a very great angle; so that when the water rises to a certain height, it finds an exit through the strata to the base of the hills ; where it runs off, and forms the little river in the plain below.
In this
Yesaro are some fish, called
"glavitza" {l > ao, od 1844. do danas}
(glaviza), said to be very rare; but not being able to procure one, I do not know to what species they belong. Another kind of
glavitza is found at the springs of the lake of Ottok in the plain, (even though that lake is dry in summer,) which the peasants catch by a sort of trap, consisting of a low wall built round the spring-head, with an {◊144} aperture on one side, covered with a net. The same fish are also found in the land-
springs of
Krenitze*. |The fish mentioned by Heckel, in the lakes near Imoschi, are Phoxinus Mariglii, Squalius microlepis, Leucos cisalpinus, and Alburnus Scoranza; all which are
Cyprinidae. The other
Yesari are very similar to these two, though mostly smaller in size and depth, and it is said that there are as many as fifty, {!} in various parts of the country. At the north end of the plain of Imoschi is a lake of considerable size, called Proloxaz †, |Or Prolojatz.| {loj nije loža} which may be seen from the town. In former times it was much smaller, and its increase is said to have been owing to a stratagem of the monks, who inhabited a convent on the end of the peninsula, that projected into the lake. Finding themselves exposed to disagreeable visits from the Turks, they determined to cut off all communication with the main land; and, having closed the exit of the lake, forced the water to rise, and convert the peninsula into an island, which it continues to be to the present day. {F.M.R. ponorić, Mlikota, Ballif etc.}
There is another lake, at the southern end of the plain, where they are now enlarging the exit of the river Verlicca, in order to facilitate the flow of water from the land. The river there runs under ground, by a natural passage, called
"Voragine" ("the whirlpool"), {!} and having passed through, to the other side of the hills, is said to reappear in the {◊145} plain of Gliubuski, whence it runs, under the name of Trebisát*, |See page 41.| to the Narenta at Strúké. {Strùge}
The plain of Imoschi, like many other parts of Dalmatia, has much need of drainage; a great portion of it being under water, during the autumn; and such is the value of the land, that by an outlay of half a million of florins (50,000£.), it is calculated that the government, or a company, would gain at least 40 per cent. By making a direct communication to carry off the water during the winter, from the northern to the southern lake, and by keeping up a sufficient quantity in another channel, for the purposes of irrigation in summer, when water is much wanted, every advantage might be derived from its productive soil; barren marshes would be converted into rich fields; and the climate, freed from fever, would be rendered healthy.
There is, indeed, a canal, on the western side of the plain, made by Signor Marco Werdoliack in 1819, the then
podestà (or mayor) {podeštat, poteštat} of Imoschi; who deserves great credit for an undertaking, persisted in, contrary to the opinion of the government, and the prejudices of those who were not directly benefited by it. Neither of these diverted him from his purpose; he undertook it on his own responsibility, and having employed 13,000 hands, completed it in so satisfactory a manner, that, on the report of the commission sent to examine it, he received the thanks of the government; and the poor land, which, {◊146} till then, only produced a scanty crop of
sorghum, is now rich and valuable soil.
Having a letter to the
pretore, I happened to visit him at the very moment, when he was listening to a multitude of applications, some of which afforded considerable diversion. Among them were some slayers of wolves; who, being entitled to receive from the government twenty florins* |£2.| a head for every male, and twenty-five for every she- wolf, had presented themselves with the trophies of their success. They were simple-minded boors, with the usual long pigtails, {!} loose brown {!} jackets, and
blue tights of the Morlacchi; and quizzed by the hat-wearing townsmen, with a display of superior intelligence, they were asked, whether "they caught the wolf asleep," or "shot him unawares," or "if he had any wicked intentions," and numerous other questions; all of which were answered, with a simplicity, as genuine as it was entertaining; though not unaccompanied by the look, that betrayed their anxiety for the promised reward.
Wolves are far from numerous in Dalmatia, except in hard winters, when they come from the mountains of Turkey, and they are only about the size of a large dog. {!}
Many curious costumes were seen at the Pretore's court, as well as in the market place, especially of the women, who, when married, wear a round white head-dress, ornamented with gold and silver pendants, {◊147} which is peculiar to this part of the country, and a girdle fastened by a handsome clasp.
After inspecting the numerous groups, collected at the
Pretore's, I went with Sign
r. Werdoliack, to see the tombs, and Roman road, near Runovich, below the opposite hills, to the westward. A short ride brought us to the
Kamen most ("stone bridge"), on the other side of the plain, about a mile in a direct line from Imoschi. This bridge was once guarded by a tower at the east end, vestiges of which still remain. It is not of Roman time, but in the water, near the centre arch, a stone may be seen in summer, bearing this inscription, of Marcus Aurelius: —
IMP (Caesari)
DIVI ANTO
NINI FILIO DI
VI HADRIANI
NEPOTI DIVI TRAIA
NI PARTHICI PRONE(poti)
DIVI NERVAE (abne)POTI
M · AVRELIO ANTONI
(no Augusto) ARM(eniaco).
The stream, that runs under the bridge, comes from the hills to the north-west, and just below it begins the Werdoliack canal. It is supposed that the old Roman road followed the edge of these hills, when the plain was partly a marsh, and partly covered with wood; and report speaks of the tracks {◊148} of chariot wheels, still visible at a projecting hill, about a mile and a half to the south of the bridge. On the hill are some of the early Christian tombs, on one of which I observed a cross. It is the only one left standing, and consists of a triangular headed block, four feet long and nearly six high, placed on a flat slab. It stands about E.S.E., which I found to be the usual direction of these tombs, in other places.
About two miles further on is Runovich, also at the edge of the hills that skirt the plain; where, in the church yard, several Latin inscriptions have been found, few of which now remain. They were mostly dedications to Jupiter; and I was fortunate enough to obtain copies of those, that have been removed, or destroyed. Two, which are built into the wall, are dedicated
"Jovi optimo maximo, et Genio;" another is let into the pavement of the church, and much worn by the feet of the congregation*; |crtež|
and the nine that have been taken {◊149} away were principally dedications to Jupiter*, |crtež| by soldiers of the 1st and 13th Legions quartered there. One of them is interesting, from its giving the ancient name of the place,
"Nov" or
"Novanium†" |† crtež| written in the Itinerary of Antoninus
"ad Novas" which may be traced in the modern Ru
novich. {Bjelowaratz, nu ovog izkonoslovlja! Sa srijede, čoče.}
There are some remains of old walls, and Roman tiles; and in the church is a strange-looking stone, let into the wall, about one foot long and the same in height, which might answer very well as a
monster pipe-bowl for a party of Derwishes. In a field below the village are some large slabs, belonging to old Christian tombs, and half a mile to the south of Runovich are nine or ten more; some of the sarcophagus shape, but without sculpture of any kind, except a scroll, or arabesque border.
The people are fond of tradition in Dalmatia; {crteži p 149.}
{◊150} and pretend that these tombs are of the time of Diocletian: nor have natural phenomena escaped their love of the marvellous; and the origin of the
Yesari of Imoschi is ascribed to the sins of a rich man, who was swallowed up with his house and flocks by the yawning ground, for his indifference to the sufferings of a poor peasant. With the circumstantial accuracy, however, of similar stories, it is related, that the rich man's wife was saved from the same fate, {! Prominilo se od Wilkinzona od/do Milinovića?} through her kind-heartedness, in supplying him with food; and this, like so many others, may serve to show the value of legendary tales, and the error of those who think that "there is always some truth in local tradition."
On returning to Imoschi, I was shown two other inscriptions, both funereal mementos, of veterans of the 11th Legion; one found in the village of Proloxaz *, |crtež| the other at the sources of the Verlicca.† |crtež|
{◊151} During my ride to Runovich the sun was very warm; and, as the weather had long been clear, every one rejoiced in the unusual beauty of the season; November {!} being generally a cold rainy month, which, from its ushering in the winter, is called, in Illyric, {! 1844.}
Stúdeni; for every month has received its name in that language, from some peculiarity, thus:
January is called Siçagn (Sichagn), "time of cutting" (wood for fire).
February — Végliaça, "unsettled."
March — Oxujak (Oxuiak), "clearing" (the weeds from the corn).
April — Travagn, "herbiferous."
May — Ivíbagn, "entwining" (of birds' nests).
June — Lípagn, "fine" (weather) (from
lip, or
liepo, "beautiful)." {Werdoljak nije imao pri oku nijedno lipovo drvo, a di š Englezu ponudit lipov čaj? Vengo Belevarac što je s ovim akutom (´) u Engleza? Stúdeni, Ivíbagn, Lípagn? Ili su stari Imoćani raztezali Studéni 1844. ko Proložani métar, lítar… i dandanas?}
July — Súrpagn, "sickle," or "reaping" (time).
August — Kólovoz, "carting " (from
kolo, "wheel," and
vozité, "to conduct)."
September — Ruian, "ruddy" (from
rui, or
ruj, "red," referring to red wine). {Javorov list… @ Bodensee, rumeni list}
October — Listopad, "leaf-fall."
November — Stúdeni, " cold."
December — Prósinaz, "illuminated" (referring to the advent of Christ).
The very next day the greatest and most sudden change took place, that I ever remember to have seen in any country. It had rained all night, and on looking out of my window in the morning I perceived Mount Biocovo, and all the other mountains, covered with snow. The winter had at once set in, and the rapid change made the cold appear more {◊152} intense; as I was painfully convinced on leaving Imoschi. …«
